L
isbon, Portugal, is an affordable, safe and
family-friendly way to introduce or rein-
troduce your kids to European travel.

We’ve taken our children there twice—
pre- and post-pandemic—and whether age 9 or 19,
they found exciting adventures in one of Europe’s
oldest nations.

Flights from Baltimore or Washington, D.C. to
Lisbon are consistently among the most affordable
options for traveling abroad over the past few years,
and once there, accommodations, food and attrac-
tions are inexpensive. Plus, Portugal is one of the
most COVID-vaccinated countries in Europe.

Part of the joy of international travel—for kids
and adults alike—is experiencing an alternate real-
ity. If you can get your kids into an “Indiana Jones”
or “Dora the Explorer” frame of mind, they’ll enjoy
the adventure.

Over the years, we’ve found
that traveling with children
does not need to mean kids’ museums and theme
parks. Palaces, architecture, art, music, parks and
ruins are fun for children to explore—and a won-
derful way to expose them to another culture.

A+ NEIGHBORHOOD
In Lisbon, our favorite neighborhood is Alfama.

Founded in 1200 BCE, it’s the oldest area in the city
and looks like something out of a sketch from cen-
turies ago: historic buildings with red-clay roofs,
cobblestone side streets twisting through the hill-
sides and connecting little squares where decorative
tiles—and drying laundry—mark residential door-
ways and windows. Not to mention the antique
trolleys clanging by like clockwork.

Looking at the area today, it’s hard to believe
that Alfama was once the wealthiest part of
Lisbon. Fear of earthquakes motivated the wealthy
residents to flee to other areas—
ironic since Alfama was the only
Part of the joy
of international
travel—for kids and adults
alike—is experiencing an
alternate reality.

14 Washington FAMILY JUNE 2023



Authentic, Affordable,
Family Friendly
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY
BY ERIC D. GOODMAN
neighborhood in Lisbon to survive
the big earthquake of 1755.

LET THE KIDS STORM
THE CASTLE
In the middle of Alfama stands the
Castelo de São Jorge — more fortress
than palace. (Think Baltimore’s Fort
McHenry.) After retaking this mountaintop
from the Moors in 1147, the Portuguese king
transformed the citadel into a royal res-
idence. Little remains of the original
castle, restored in the early 1900s to its
medieval likeness.

We walked along the battle-
ments, climbing the towers for
great views. Gardens populated with
trees and peacocks made for a fun,
lazy afternoon.

Walking the walls of Alfama’s Castelo de São Jorge.

The Cloister inside Belém’s Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.

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TILE: MONAMONASH; BACKGROUND: LUCIE KASPAROVA/ISTOCK;
PANORAMA: FOTOVOYAGER; BOY: RICHVINTAGE/E+;GETTY IMAGES PLUS
LISBON’S “MODERN” CENTER
One of Lisbon’s most recognizable
meeting places is Praça do Comércio,
commonly known as Commercial Square or
Palace Square. In 1755, the palace and its library
of 70,000 books were destroyed in the earth-
quake-resulting tsunami.

The city and square were rebuilt
in Manueline style: wide roads and
sturdy houses to withstand subse-
quent disasters. Today, the square is
lined with restaurants, cafes, shops,
the Tejo River and Rua Augusta Arch.